Backstrap / Loin-Loom / Body-Tension Weaving

Our traditional weaves in Nagaland are crafted using the ancient loin-loom, also known as a backstrap loom or a body-tension loom. This over 3,500-year-old weaving technology is widely used among indigenous hill communities across Central and South America, South, East, and South-East Asia.

The Simplicity of the Loin-Loom

The loin-loom is a simple yet effective piece of equipment made up of:

• A shaped wooden stick
• A rope
• A waistband that wraps around the weaver’s lower back

What makes this loom truly unique is its portability. A weaver can set up almost anywhere, using a door, a balcony railing, or a wall hook to create the necessary tension. This adaptability is one of the reasons it has been widely adopted by indigenous and tribal communities worldwide.

Intricate Patterns from a Simple Setup

Despite its rudimentary design, the backstrap loom allows for complex textile patterns. In Nagaland, the backstrap weave features a double warp, meaning that the stripes or solid colors along the warp are pre-determined at the warping stage. After this stage, intricate motifs and shapes can be incorporated as an extra weft.

A Female-Dominated Craft

Weaving in Nagaland is predominantly practiced by women of all ages and across different tribes. Due to the loom’s design, each fabric piece is typically 18-20 inches wide. For larger textiles, multiple panels are carefully stitched together, demonstrating the patience and craftsmanship of our weavers.

Preserving Tradition Through Weaving

Nagaland has a rich history of growing, spinning, and weaving cotton fiber. Many of our traditional textiles are embedded with symbolic motifs that carry cultural significance. Some motifs are linked to social status or tribe-specific customs, dictating who can wear them.

Through the loin-loom, Chizami Weaves continues to celebrate and sustain this traditional weaving method, keeping Nagaland’s textile heritage alive for generations to come.